The Albanian Night Club

So we met up with Dritan’s cousin, Migena, for lunch on Friday (1/10/10).  She wanted to practice her English (Anglisht) with me, but like most other Albanians, was quite embarrassed about her speaking abilities.  Her Anglisht was quite fine (like most other Albanians), and she could speak in simple sentences and ideas.  She asked me what words I learned in Albanian.  I told her that I learned the most important phrase for me: “Me Fal.  Nuk Flas Shqip. Flas Anglisht.” (“I’m sorry.  I don’t speak Albanian. I speak English.” Complete with bewildered look).  Migena got a call just then, and when she was through she asked us if we wanted to go a new club that was opening that night.  Her friend knew the manager and could get us in.  “Sure.” We said.  I had researched nightlife in Tirana, but the reviews were a bit older, and I wasn’t sure I could even find the places if I tried.  This invitation was one I was happy to accept. 

Migena’s friend picked us up around 9:15 and we met the rest of the group at a nice little coffee house.  Most of them spoke some level of English, except one guy.  (During the night, every so often, he would look at Dritan and say “Translate, translate!” for me. I thought it was very sweet.) The usual questions ensued “How do you find Tirana? What do you like about it? Does anyone in the U.S. even know where Albania is?” (OK, they didn’t phrase it quite like that, but they did have a good laugh after I told them that sometimes my family still asks me “Where’s Albania?”)  Migena’s friends were quite welcoming and friendly, this I could tell even if they hadn’t tried to speak English with me every so often.

 

We ordered coffee, a Macchiato with extra sugar for me, another one for Dritan.  Truly, it’s the only thing I know how to order, so it’s the only thing I get.  I’ve learned to appreciate the mixing of the foam, the waiting to drink until it cools, the slow way you sip it while chatting with friends, the teeeeny tiny handles…anyway, it was fun conversation and I could tell it was going to be a good night. 

Finally with my drink!

          

“Matis” had larger than life black and white pictures of James Dean and Marilyn Monroe on the wall as we walked in.  There was modern décor, and it was not quite full yet, but the crowd was energetic. We walked towards the DJ stand and found a table.  I saw someone drinking what I thought might be Prosecco, so I ordered one.  No dice.  “Any white wine is fine.” Oh, but no, they aren’t serving wine.  Just beer and cocktails.  Ok, how about a Stoli Raz and Sprite then?  Dritan didn’t know how to translate that (Albania doesn’t have raspberries).  I looked at Migena and said “I’ll have what she’s having!” Finally, I got a drink.  

It was too loud to talk, so we stood around for a few minutes while a couple people smoked.  That’s another thing about Tirana (Well, Europe in general), they allow smoking indoors in basically all places.  By the end of the night our clothes would be quite stinky.  I drank some since I don’t smoke, but I noticed I was outpacing my Albanian counterparts by quite a bit, so I slowed down.  Dritan said to me “I noticed they don’t drink as much here.” And as I looked around, it was quite true.  Everyone had a drink, but there was no rush to down it.  Over the course of the night, maybe 5 hours total, we each had four drinks – the last two both went unfinished. They told us this was typical for the people in their city.  It’s not that people don’t drink, it’s just that the cost of drinks compared with salaries is quite expensive.

We danced in our little corner, each of us having different favorite songs.  It was clear this DJ was a crowd pleaser, as every few songs a cheer went through the crowd when a popular song came on.   I was quite surprised at how many American songs were played – Madonna "Holiday," Technotronic "Pump up the Jam," Fatman Scoop "Put your hands up," Jay Z, Eminem & Rhianna, I even heard a techno mix of Bon Jovi (I was simultaneously impressed and appalled at that one)!  Overall, it was not much different from a modern American bar with a little dancing thrown in.  The people-watching was fun, especially watching my husband get down.  I think he was a dancer in a past life. J  




Do the funky chicken!! ... No? Um...ok.



I even came home with a new favorite song:

We went from that bar to an Albanian karaoke bar – Magic 4.  My, how the Albanians love their karaoke!  They had six our huge screens with the lyrics, so being a good sport, I tried to sing along with the music.  I’m glad nobody could hear me!  The Albanians on stage, however, were belting it out like Whitney Houston in her best days.  The crowd was singing along with gusto as well.  At one point, Migena and a couple friends of hers grabbed my hand and started dancing around the table in a traditional Albanian style.  Migena is a good dancer, and it’s clear she enjoys having a good time.  . 

Eventually, however, the strobe lights directly overhead became a bit much for me (not to mention the sound system wasn’t calibrated correctly, so if someone moved in front of a speaker, there was high-pitched feedback) and I’m afraid I came across rude when I checked Migena’s phone twice within twenty minutes.  Gracefully, Migena told me “I’m tired, we should go soon.” We finished what we would of our drinks and headed for the door, the karaoke still going strong.  I asked “What time to the bars close around here?”  She shrugged. “Whenever the people leave.”  Hmmm, what a concept.  Boston should be more like that.  Overall, it was great fun and Migena was a great host for us – I’m so thankful she took us out that night. 



Migena, Dritan & Me